In 1914, baker Pedro Martín and his wife Pilar Lizano; Both Caspe natives decided to open a churreria in the town of Bajo Aragon. 108 years later today, what they never dreamed of, fifth generation churreros would continue with the reins of this family businessr. They are Álvaro (31) and José Antonio Pérez (37), always accompanied by their mother, Caspolina Laura Sancho (58); They continue to supply the Aragonese with sweets, batons and chocolate.
Laura, a lifelong churrera, and her husband, Antonio Pérez, a fair trader from Zaragoza, continued with the family legacy until the arrival of the generational change.. “My husband really enjoyed this work and especially the Pilar festivities until he left, he loved coming to the arena,” she recalls excitedly. In fact, they have been coming to the same arena for 35 years at the entrance and exit of bullfights.
His sister, Carmen Sancho (64), also runs her own traveling churría, currently located in Fraga. They both grew up in the heat of the fryer as they say. “You’ve been here since you were born, in the garlic. You have no escape”, Álvaro jokes, that he loves this job and “birth churro” In turn, Laura and Carmen got the baton from their mother, Josefa Paris, who made it from her mother, Carmen Martín.
Few resist approaching this street stall while passing through the square:There are nice queues here every day.” And this is churros to fall in love with. “They’re one of the most typical Spanish products, almost more than ham and paella,” assures José Antonio. In his case, this graphic designer has returned to the world of churreria as a job alternative, although he continues to create his own artwork, which he has meanwhile signed as ‘Churrero’. “José Antonio Pérez, there are many churreros signing photos, not many,” he jokes.
Although it was over a hundred years ago, this family does not forget that they started the business from scratch. However, it didn’t take long for them to win over the locals touring towns in the region. “Being a street vendor back then was relative. A hundred years ago you couldn’t move like you do now,” jokes the churrero. Gradually, Gelsa, Pina, Fuentes de Ebro, Ricla, Alpartir, Andorra, Fraga, Nonaspe, Zaragoza, Albalate, Alcorisa, began to make a name in the Andorra region… “Neither war nor epidemic can defeat us. We will do the right thing”, says Álvaro.
And the truth is, if there’s one thing that stands out in this family of churros, it’s the care they work with each and every part of it. “The quality of the raw materials we use is essential for us,” says the brothers. That, and the fact that every person approaching the barn is greeted by name as if they were neighbors for a lifetime. “Everyone knows us, it’s been many years,” they add.
They arrived in Zaragoza on October 6th. They opened the shutter on Sunday and won’t close it until the 16th to bid farewell to parties in style.. “35 years ago we were one of the few in town selling churros. There is a lot more competition today,” they admit. As for their schedule, they work from 6 am to 12 noon – heifer hours as they say – and from 6 pm in the afternoon until the body can stand it. “Sometimes we connect until 6:00, it depends on the work done”, they say.
a big responsibility
Up to five people work simultaneously in this small cabin measuring only 20 square meters. The coordination is striking, to say the least. While Álvaro prepares a new batch of churros, a colleague prepares traditional paper cones that will soon be filled with churros. “The most common is a dozen or a half dozen. They are 5 euros. We have very popular prices”, adds José Antonio.
For Laura Sancho, continuing the family legacy is “a pride and a great responsibility”. “We’ve been doing the same thing for 100 years. That’s why so many people come looking for us. People value gender, treatment and also how we do things,” says Caspe resident.
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